1
Day 1: Santa Cruz - Sucre
You take your national flight Santa Cruz - Sucre.
A driver will meet you at Alcantarí Airport , Sucre, to take you to your hotel in the city center. Welcome to the white city and capital of Bolivia!
Let's explore Sucre , a colonial jewel, known as the white city of Bolivia. Did you know that it is also the constitutional capital of the country ?
Located in the heart of a valley at just 2,700 m above sea level, Sucre benefits from a pleasant climate and it is pleasant to walk there, contemplate the historic facades and buildings or even stroll through its parks. Sucre also has many churches , which you will not fail to find along the streets. Renowned for its gastronomy and gentle way of life , this city fills the hearts of its inhabitants, the Chuquisaqueños, with pride.
Listed by UNESCO as a world heritage site ; you will have understood, Sucre has a lot to offer. We start with the Convent of La Recoleta , a magnificent group of cloisters founded by the Franciscan order in 1601 which, moreover, offers a superb panorama of the city. As we enter the Casa de la Libertad, where the independence treaty was signed in 1825, we learn a little more about the history of Bolivia.
The Sucre region is also recognized for the richness of its traditional textiles , which highlight indigenous art . Let's dive into the history of local cultures through the Museum of Indigenous Art (ASUR) . It is an essential which allows us to perceive the ancestral know-how, which traces the fabrics, mainly the jalq'a .
IMPORTANT: Weekly closure of museums: ASUR: Sunday and public holidays, Casa de la Libertad: Saturday and Sunday afternoon and public holidays. Convent of Recoleta, open every day but Saturdays and Sundays only from 2:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.
You spend the night at the Su Merced hotel.
Included: domestic flight , French-speaking guide , guide fees , arrival transfer , entrance(s) to site(s) mentioned in the program , room & breakfast
Our driver picks us up at the hotel to leave for Tarabuco in a private vehicle. After about 1.5 hours of driving (70 km), we arrive in this small traditional village, renowned throughout the country for its weekly market, one of the most famous craft markets on the continent .
The Yamparas come to offer their products there every Sunday. That day we came across women and men in the streets who still wore traditional clothing. The montera , the region's famous helmet, sets them apart from all other communities. Colors and animation are there.
We then take our vehicle back to Candelaria , 20 km further south. This charming village located in the heart of the “Tarabuco” country retains all its authenticity and most of its inhabitants only speak Quechua.
We share lunch with a family of weavers, visit the small museum, an initiative of the villagers who are proud to exhibit their weaving there. We discover all the complexity of the weaving technique when our host takes out his loom.
We return to Sucre at the end of the afternoon.
You spend the night at the Su Merced hotel.
Included: French-speaking guide , lunch , private transport , room & breakfast , guide fees
We meet Céline , a French woman living in Bolivia for more than 10 years. She shares with us her daily life and her love for her adopted city, its culture and its history.
Meet at 9:00 a.m. to walk to the city market . Here we are, taken between the spice, fruit and vegetable stalls to buy the products that will allow us to prepare the famous sopa de mani . Great opportunity to speak with the caseritas (“ case ” for short is the term used in Bolivia to affectionately address women traders).
We take a vehicle to reach the town of Yotala , 30 minutes from Sucre, to arrive at our host's house. We sit in the kitchen to slice the onions, cook the meat over low heat, mix the peanuts, brown the vegetables... the secret of the sopa is in the noodles, grilled before cooking, and in the llajwa , spicy sauce which goes with absolutely all Andean dishes.
We leave Sucre (2810 m alt.) by private vehicle to reach Potosí (3900 m alt.), located 160 km away. We cross the Pilcomayo River via the Sucre Bridge, with its somewhat anachronistic architecture. This river separates Argentina and Paraguay further south. We leave the Chuquisaca valleys and gain altitude to climb to the Potosí plateaus , where we arrive after about 3 hours of driving.
Night at the Santa Monica Hotel
Included: French-speaking guide , lunch , private transport , room & breakfast , guide fees
We discover the architectural richness of the numerous historic buildings which have earned the city its UNESCO heritage listing. The Imperial City is characterized first of all by its “Andean baroque” architecture and its Cerro Rico , which can be seen from kilometers away!
Interested in the colonial history of the city and its wealth, choose to explore the Casa de la Moneda , an immense building where the currency of the Spanish crown was minted until the 19th century.
On the other hand, it is in the perfectly preserved convent of Santa Teresa that we can appreciate one of the most important museums of religious art in Latin America.
Notes:
- Casa de la Moneda is closed on Sundays.
This afternoon, we share lunch with a Bolivian family (mining or peasant family from the Potosi region).
Accompanied by our guide, we taste local specialties while learning more about their lifestyles and daily lives.
Night at the Santa Monica Hotel
Included: entry(s) site(s) mentioned in the program , French-speaking guide , lunch (excluding drinks) , room & breakfast , guide fees
5
Day 5: Potosi - Colchani
Let's discover the imperial city and the architectural richness of the numerous historic buildings which have earned it its UNESCO heritage listing.
Let's start with a tour in the Casco viejo , that is to say the old Potosi or in the “Indigenous” district at the foot of Cerro Rico.
Entering the perfectly preserved convent of Santa Teresa, we can appreciate paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries and one of the most important museums of religious art in Latin America. The nuns who currently live at the convent make delicious marzipan candies, famous and sought after from colonial times to the present day.
Note: the monastery is closed on Sunday and Tuesday mornings.
We leave the hotel by private vehicle and cross the entire Cordillera de los Frailes and its multicolored mountains.
We pass along numerous bofedales where thousands of llamas graze. On the way, stop at Pulacayo , which was the second most important silver mine on the continent in the 17th and 18th centuries. Today it is a virtually abandoned village, but its museum traces its past splendor. Shortly after, the Salar appears, a surreal vision. We pass Uyuni to reach Colchani , on the shore of the salt sea.
It takes around 4 to 4.5 hours to drive.
Night at the Luna Salada Hotel.
Included: entry(s) site(s) mentioned in the program , French-speaking guide , private transport , dinner (excluding drinks) , room & breakfast , guide fees
6
Day 6: Colchani - Villamar
Today we begin our crossing of South Lipez , a high altitude region known for its vast expanses of desert, its colorful lagoons, its salt flats, its rock formations and its volcanoes.
The day begins with a visit to the train cemetery on the outskirts of Uyuni: a string of rusty locomotives, lying in the middle of the desert, bears witness to the region's glorious mining past.
We then head south and stop en route to visit several villages, including the model urbanization of Culpina K. In this " magic village ", the inhabitants have organized themselves to make a living from quinoa cultivation and tourism and thus ensure their children a future far from work in the mines.
We have lunch in San Cristobal , a village known for its rich colonial church, which we will be able to visit if we are lucky because it is not always open.
We then cross the Rio Grande region to arrive at the village of Villamar (4022 m alt.) at the end of the day. Keep your eyes peeled: this area is home to lots of vicuñas and rheas (cousins of the ostrich)! Today we will have traveled around 190 km in our private 4x4.
Night at the Las Piedritas hostel (basic comfort).
Included: dinner (excluding drinks) , entrance(s) to site(s) mentioned in the program , French-speaking driver-guide , lunch (excluding drinks) , room & breakfast , French-speaking guide , guide fees
7
Day 7: Villamar - Siloli desert
Second day dedicated to South Lipez today: we start with the discovery of Laguna Colorada (4278 m alt.). This lagoon gets its intense brick-red coloring from the presence of phytoplankton which reacts to sunlight and attracts colonies of pink flamingos part of the year.
We then reach the Sol de Mañana geysers (4850 m alt.), a volcanic crater which spews out effusions of sulfur vapor and heavy water. Next stop: the Polques thermal baths . Prepare for a surprising experience: a hot bath in 30°C water, at an altitude of almost 4200 m, in the middle of an icy desert and a spectacular landscape.
So warmed up, we get back in the 4x4 to follow Laguna Salada and cross the Dali Desert (4750 m alt.). The strong wind that blows here has forged surprising rock formations that recall the paintings of the Spanish master. At the end of the morning we arrive at Laguna Blanca and Laguna Verde (4350 m alt.), located at the foot of the Juriques and Licancabur volcanoes (5704 and 5960 m alt.). After traveling about 170 km, we are here in the extreme south of Bolivia, very close to the Chilean border.
We then return to Laguna Colorada (90 km), then continue 70 km due north to the Siloli Desert (4500 m alt.), where we spend the night. Along the way we discover the famous “Stone Tree”.
You spend the night at the Tayka del Desierto hotel.
(availability of double room not guaranteed).
Included: dinner (excluding drinks) , French-speaking driver-guide , lunch (excluding drinks) , dinner , room & breakfast , French-speaking guide , guide fees
8
Day 8: Siloli desert - San Pedro de Quemez
Heading north! We follow the Chilean border along the “ Road of Jewels ”: Laguna Honda, Ch'arkota, Hedionda and Cañapa, sanctuaries of three varieties of pink flamingos .
Stop at the Ollagüe volcano viewpoint . This still active volcano (5865 m alt.) is also home to one of the highest sulfur mines in the world.
Then the track descends from approximately 4200 m to 3600 m altitude. We cross the small Chiguana salar , at the foot of the Tomasamil volcano (5900 m alt.), before reaching the village of San Pedro de Quemez .
You spend the night at the Tayka de Piedra Hotel.
(availability for double-double room not guaranteed)
Included: dinner (excluding drinks) , French-speaking driver-guide , lunch (excluding drinks) , room & breakfast , French-speaking guide , guide fees
9
Day 9: San Pedro de Quemez - Uyuni - La Paz
End of our crossing today, we are setting off to discover the largest salt desert in the world! From San Pedro, two hours of trail allow us to reach the Salar de Uyuni (3650 m alt.). The sensation is unique: the horizon no longer has limits and the immensity invites silence.
We drive about half an hour (34 km) on this immense white expanse to reach the island of Incahuasi . This surprising island of volcanic origin, lost in the heart of the salar, offers a breathtaking view of the salt desert and the surrounding volcanoes. It is covered with stromatolites and giant cacti (stromatolites are fossilized bacterial colonies, the first traces of life on Earth).
In the afternoon, we continue crossing the salar: heading east for about an hour and a half (73 km) towards the town of Uyuni . Before arriving, we make a stop at Colchani to visit a salt exploitation.
Our driver takes us to the Uyuni bus terminal.
We take a night bus towards La Paz. Reclining seats, small snacks, more comfortable than a plane and less CO2 emissions!
Included: entrance(s) site(s) mentioned in the program , French-speaking driver-guide , lunch (excluding drinks) , private transport , departure transfer , bus ticket , dinner (excluding drinks) , French-speaking guide , travel fees guide
Our driver picks us up at the bus station.
A breakfast awaits us upon our arrival.
We leave for a day of exploring La Paz. We walk the streets of Sopocachi , towards the center, with a little break for “fresh fruit juice” at the Sopocachi mercado and “ salteña ” along the way. Salteña is the Bolivian 11am snack, it is a small turnover stuffed with chicken or beef in its own juice. The challenge: to eat it, without cutlery, without getting stained...
A mixed and contrasting city, La Paz is the perfect sample of an entire country. From the market district, colorful and full of smells, we cross a few streets to find ourselves in the heart of the historic district , which has become a business center. Two worlds which coexist 200 meters apart and whose only common point is the permanent and noisy chaos which characterizes them.
We take a coca mate , or leaves to chew on the Sagarnaga. We pass through the Mercado de Las Brujas , where we buy a miniature to please the Ekeko, the benevolent god of abundance. Tradition dictates that one projects all one's hopes into the purchase of the coveted object in miniature, which will then be ritualized. ( Discover The Legend of Ekeko)
In the historic district, we take Calle Jaen , one of the last colonial streets in the city, with its cobblestones and colorful houses. We take the time to open all the doors to discover small interior courtyards, galleries, the museum of musical instruments, and we meet Rosario. She talks to us about culture, fashion, traditions, and invites us to try on her many cholitas petticoats (7 superimposed it seems), giving us all her seamstress secrets.
We have lunch at one of the common tables in the market, among the Paceños . The choice of dishes is rich, and the smells of grilled meat with aji sauce mix with those of fried foods and other spicy soups.
We reach El Alto by cable car, we fly over houses as far as the eye can see, we intrude above the interior courtyards, the terraces where traditional clothes and dance costumes dry... On the side of the cliff the shamans are perched who lead the Pachamama offering ceremonies. Shall we venture to one of them to have the coca leaves read to us?
We go back down through the general cemetery . Far from being scary or sad, this unique cemetery is lively, colorful with large murals and decorated by the families of the deceased. Here, death is celebrated: we sing, we dance and we make offerings to honor deceased loved ones. This visit allows us to better understand Bolivian culture regarding its dead. We then pass through Calle de Los Andes , street of carnival costumers, boutiques and tailors. We could watch for hours the meticulous work of the Diablada mask makers . Further down, towards the market, you can find tailor-made hats, jewelry of all kinds and cholitas petticoats .
For dinner, we will provide you with a list of restaurant suggestions, of all styles. In Bolivia, we are lucky to have varied and quality food, we eat well. It's simple: here products from the Amazon, the Yungas (tropical fruits and vegetables), the Altiplano (dad, quinoa, llama), meat from Beni, and products from Lake Titicaca come together. The meal can be accompanied by a good local Tarija wine with a high altitude grape variety.
📼 Follow us in the streets of La Paz, with our homemade podcast
📼 Also meet Victor Colodro in the podcast: T erra Bolivia la Radio #11
French-speaking Bolivian guide, former professional musician, he explains to us the tradition of Andean music. Having become a guide, he continues to share his love of Bolivian traditions: Pachamama, coca leaves and of course folk music. Good listening !
Night at the Naira Hotel.
Included: private transport , breakfast , entrance(s) to site(s) mentioned in the program , French-speaking guide , lunch (excluding drinks) , buffet breakfast , room , guide fees
11
Day 11: La Paz-Copacabana-Yumani
On the way to the largest navigable lake in the world (8,560 km² shared between Peru and Bolivia)! At an average altitude of 3800 meters and surrounded by snow-capped mountain ranges, Lake Titicaca is known for its islands steeped in tradition and history.
We leave La Paz by private transport to reach Copacabana , the main Bolivian city on the lake. To arrive, we follow the lake and the Royal Cordillera for 155 km (approximately 3.5 hours of driving) and shortly before arriving, cross the Strait of Tiquina by ferry.
We board a small boat, a “lancha”, towards the Island of the Moon or Isla de la Luna in Spanish. We take the opportunity to bring some food to this small isolated island of barely 91 hectares and inhabited by only around fifty families.
The Island of the Moon is the second sacred island of the Incas, after the Island of the Sun, known as Isla del Sol in Spanish. There we find the ruins of the Iñak Uyu palace , reserved for the Virgins of the Sun , the ñustas, chosen from the noblest families of the Empire. During their stays on this island, they received the education that would allow them to become future priestesses.
On the island, Doña Esperanza awaits us with her broad smile and welcomes us to her home, in one of the small houses that she renovated with her husband. Originally from the shores of Lake Titicaca, on the "mainland", she moved to the island of the Moon for her husband. She has learned to live to the rhythm of the place, of which she knows all the secrets that she will share with us. We will be able to discover its plantations and the different plants of the island; including muña, a medicinal herb, very strong in aromas, which grows between 3000 and 4000m altitude and relieves almost everything.
At midday, we share an “ Apthapi ” with Esperanza and the neighbors of the village, a typical lunch where everyone brings something and where we share everything. We can contribute with the fresh cheese and bread that we bought when leaving La Paz. When the morning fishing is good, Esperanza brings trout from the lake, accompanied by delicious vegetable fritters.
Then we head towards Île du Soleil , its southern part. We arrive at the Inca site of Pilkokaina, an ancient Inca palace. We spend the night in the village of Yumani.
You spend the night at the Jacha Inti hostel.
Included: private transport , dinner (excluding drinks) , entrance(s) to site(s) mentioned in the program , French-speaking guide , lunch (excluding drinks) , room & breakfast
12
Day 12: Yumani-Copacabana-tuni
Today we hike from the south of the island to its extreme north, along the ridge and between the pre-Inca terraces, developed for agriculture. The panorama before us is simply grandiose; a 360° view of the lake but also of the entire Cordillera Royale in the background of the map!
The island is shared between three communities, that of Yumani in the south, which we leave, that of Challa in the center and finally Challapampa in the north, towards which we are heading.
After a few hours of walking, and a picnic in the countryside, we arrive at the archaeological site of Chinkana, or labyrinth in the Aymara language, a place revered by the Incas and which marks the place where, according to legend, the God Viracocha gave birth to his son Manco Capac, first Inca and Mama Ocllo.
After a short descent to the community of Challapampa, our boat takes us back to Copacabana. It takes around 1h30 to cross; enough to enjoy the immensity of the lake and the Royal Cordillera for a while longer.
From Copacabana we leave, heading towards Tuni , an Aymara community which lives in the heart of the Royal Cordillera, close to the imposing Condoriri massif.
We first follow Lake Titicaca then the Cordillera Real and arrive after about 3 hours of travel.
You spend the night at the Ecolodge Tuni refuge.
Included: picnic basket , entry(ies) to site(s) mentioned in the program , private transport , dinner (excluding drinks) , room & breakfast
We decide the rhythm of our days, and we take the time to exchange, to let ourselves be surprised by the unexpected, by the encounters and by what we will learn.
We spend the day within the community of Tuni, who share with us their ancestral Aymara traditions, people of the highlands. No staging or disguises, the Quispe family opens its doors to us and invites us to live with them for a few days, in complete simplicity.
No need to be bilingual in Spanish, a few words will be enough, and that's also the whole point of sharing with the locals: learning to communicate differently by taking the time to observe more, to slow down the pace for an immersion complete in the daily life of families - especially since in the rural areas of the Andes, Aymara is spoken more than Spanish; the opportunity to listen and why not, to learn a little vocabulary of this ancestral language!
And who knows, you might even come across a member of the Quispe family who speaks French.
We are offering ourselves as a kitchen assistant, you may be with Denys and Marisol. The specialty here is huatia , where a hole is dug to cook the dish in the earth. One of the flagship foods is chuño , dehydrated potato. On the Altiplano, the soils and climate only allow certain communities to harvest one potato harvest per year. As a method of preservation, the Andeans implement a dehydration process during the coldest months to extract the starch from the potatoes. The taste is... peculiar, but the method is ingenious and we would do well to learn the technique. To complete our Andean meal, we go fishing in the glacial rivers and lagoons, rich in trout.
We participate in different tasks depending on the season and needs: manufacturing straw mattresses which will be sold in the surrounding area, collecting animal excrement for fuel in the houses.
Shearing llamas is a real ordeal, a bit strenuous, the first challenge of which is to immobilize the animal. With the spun wool, we will be able to learn weaving and making warm clothing which is very useful in the mountains.
You spend the night at the Tuni Ecolodge.
Meet Jaime Quispe, listening to the podcast: Terra Bolivia la Radio #10
French-speaking Bolivian guide from the community of Tuni, at the foot of the Cordillera Real. With the help of Terra Bolivia, he built an ecolodge to promote community tourism in his region. Good listening !
We take the road towards La Paz.
It takes around 2.5 hours to drive by private transport, and perhaps a little more because we have to cross the immense and chatotic city of El Alto, where the traffic can sometimes be quite dense.
Night at the Naira Hotel.
Included: all inclusive , room & breakfast , French-speaking guide , guide fees , private transport , buffet breakfast , room
14
Day 14: La Paz - Return
Your driver picks you up from your hotel and takes you to the airport.
Included: departure transfer , French-speaking guide , guide fees